Edwardian and Steampunk Sewing Patterns
79 Turn-of-the-Century Patterns with Instructions and Fashion Plates
By Frances Grimble
The 79 patterns in this book include afternoon, evening, ball, and wedding
gowns; home and maternity wear; suits and blouses for day and business;
lingerie; outer coats; and outfits for riding, golf, and other sports.
Each pattern has a fashion plate, plus instructions for drafting and assembly.
Additional fashion columns and plates supplement the information on fabrics,
trims, and construction. A substantial glossary explains period fabric names
and dressmaking terms.
The patterns can be enlarged either by projection, or by drafting with the
Diamond Cutting System used with the original magazines. The Diamond Cutting
System is a patent drafting system requiring special rulers that eliminate
arithmetic. It enables sewers with no drafting or design training to enlarge
the patterns to an individual’s unique measurements. Because the system is
as accurate and easy to use as ever, a full set of rulers is provided in this
book. Clear, step-by-step instructions are given for both drafting and
projection.
The Voice of Fashion is a rich pattern source for readers who recreate
period costumes for the theater, living history, bridal wear, or heirloom
sewing. It’s a valuable identification and dating tool for vintage clothing
collectors, antique dealers, and costume historians. And it will spark ideas
for fashion designers.
Reviews
“The Voice of Fashion provides 79 turn-of-the-century
patterns with instructions and a black-and-white fashion
illustration of the finished toilette. What makes this pattern
book different from others such as Patterns of Fashion
or a Dover reprint of a pattern catalog is that this book
reprints the original patterns and the tools and method for
scaling and fitting.
The author has recreated the Diamond Cutting System
these patterns utilized. This system involves special rulers that
are reprinted in the back of the book so that readers can Xerox
them. The author also explains in detail the method you use to
scale these patterns for an individualized fit. . . .
The book details the basics of making up these fashions with
specifics for ‘sponging’ wool, finishing seams, making jackets,
and the like. I have read many basic sections like this in other
books, but this had good information that applies more
specifically to Edwardian tailoring. There is also an appendix
of Edwardian dressmaking terms that is very instructive. . . .
The choice of available patterns from this volume is impressive.
They include promenade costumes, evening dresses, riding habits,
at-home tea gowns, capes and outerwear, and lingerie.
There is a one- or two-page description of ‘what is currently
fashionable’ at the head of each section of patterns.
Each fashion plate is accompanied by a text description with
notes on trims, fabrics, and colors. I think the fabric and
other descriptions are extremely helpful. . . .
This book would be a worthwhile library addition for those
interested in the fashions of the Edwardian era.”
—— Costumer’s Scribe
“[This book] contains a wide selection of original
patterns for women’s clothing taken from contemporary magazines. . . .
It utilizes one of the many patented cutting systems available to the
Edwardian dressmaker. . . .
The alternative period pattern books which include the Edwardian era
and which have been successfully used for the last thirty years are The Cut of Women’s Clothes by Norah Waugh and Patterns of Fashion, Vol. 2
by Janet Arnold. Both are excellent. But, as they each cover a broad
time span, inevitably only a few items can be selected for any specific
era. Between them they only include six female outfits for the period
1900–1906. Also, a major drawback in using these books is that the
patterns are taken from surviving costumes and, in most cases, after
scaling up to full size, the patterns must then be graded to fit. The Voice of Fashion
contains 79 patterns for this particular period. The comprehensive
selection of clothing includes underwear, outerwear, and gowns for all
manner of occasions from sport to bridal. . . .
This book should be a welcome addition to anyone involved in costume
design, costume making, or the history of turn-of-the-century clothing
of the middle-class lady.”
—— Costume (Journal of the Costume Society, United Kingdom)
“To be a ‘fashion plate’ originally compared certain well-dressed people to
the high-quality photographic reproductions seen in women’s magazines at the
turn of the century. Frances Grimble’s The Voice of Fashion shows not only
these fashion plates, but also presents 79 patterns for afternoon, evening,
ball, and wedding gowns; home and maternity wear; suits and blouses for day
and business; lingerie; outer coats; and outfits for riding, golf and other
sports; plus instructions for drafting and assembly. Grimble also provides a
helpful glossary of fabric names and dressmaking terms of the period between
1900 and 1906. Patterns may be enlarged by using a projector, or through use
of the Diamond Cutting System, which Grimble explains in step-by-step
instructions.”
—— Stage Directions
“We have copies of all [your books]. . . . They’ve been a constant source
of inspiration and have actually helped our business quite a bit. Clients take
a look at some of the construction details, grin, and tell us to
‘make it happen.’ My wife is the sewing ‘arm’ of the business
(I get to do all the bookwork, rough cutting, rough stitching, and the
buttonholes) and we’ve picked up quite a few techniques. The drawings are clear
and explain what’s going on.”
—— An “entertainment” costuming business
“This tome is a must have for any costumer/steampunk enthusiast.” “Between this book and Grimble’s Edwardian Modiste, I’ll never have to buy another antique ‘Gibson Girl’ pattern again.”
—— Reader comments
Table of Contents (readable with Adobe Acrobat)
Author Biography
Frances Grimble is the author of After a Fashion: How to Reproduce, Restore, and Wear Vintage Styles, The Lady’s Stratagem: A Repository of 1820s Directions for the Toilet, Mantua-Making, Stay-Making, Millinery & Etiquette, Reconstruction Era Fashions: 350 Sewing, Needlework, and Millinery Patterns 1867–1868, Fashions of the Gilded Age, Volume 1: Undergarments, Bodices, Skirts, Overskirts, Polonaises, and Day Dresses 1877–1882, Fashions of the Gilded Age, Volume 2: Evening, Bridal, Sports, Outerwear, Accessories, and Dressmaking 1877–1882, Bustle Fashions 1885–1887: 41 Patterns with Fashion Plates and Suggestions for Adaptation, Directoire Revival Fashions 1888–1889: 57 Patterns with Fashion Plates and Suggestions for Adaptation, and The Edwardian Modiste: 85 Authentic Patterns with Instructions, Fashion Plates, and Period Sewing Techniques. Over 60 of her articles on sewing and vintage clothes have appeared in national magazines, such as Threads, Sew News, and Antique Trader Weekly. Frances Grimble has been a how-to writer and editor since 1983. She has worked for book publishers, magazine publishers, and software companies; she has written a number of user manuals and coauthored a computer book.
Frances Grimble has substantial formal education in researching social history
and in clothing design. In 1974 she began making historical reproductions for
periods from the Renaissance into the 1920s; she tries to schedule regular sewing
time in addition to that required by her writing projects. Since 1972, she has
collected vintage clothing and accessories from the late 18th century into the mid
20th.
Publication Data
8 1/2” x 11” quality paperback463 pages
79 patterns, 86 fashion plates, 8 drafting illustrations
Drafting rulers, metric conversion table, glossary, bibliography, index
ISBN: 978-0-9636517-2-3
LCCN: 97-72141
Cover price: $42
Only 53 cents per pattern!
Web page text (except for reviews by other authors) and book cover copyright © 1998–2024 by Frances Grimble